It was just before dawn, and the Danube Delta was still. Only the songs of birds and the croaking of frogs could be heard. In that moment of stillness, as I watched the spectacular landscape under the light of a beautiful moon showing through the trees, I heard the haunting, flute-like call of a cuckoo.
Perched up above the riverbank was the thatched fisherman’s shack, simplistic in shape, yet very captivating. Two fishermen preparing for a fishing trip loaded their boat with heavy fishing equipment.
Together, we set off to explore the canals flooded with amazing and rare birds.
The vast network of canals with lakes, forests, and sandy ridges in between offers access to the most isolated and wild areas.
The giant maze of canals bordered by thatch, weeping willows, and oak tree forests, offers the perfect breeding ground for countless species of birds.
At every turn, we saw new wonders: flying egrets that looked divine, their elegant flight evoking a sense of serenity and beauty. Glossy Ibises with their curved beaks, wild ducks taking off, accompanied by their young, were surprised by our presence.
In a mangrove, a flock of pelicans and cormorants perched on branches, were resting still on roots, and even on the ground. What a picture of beauty!
“Pelicans and cormorants often nest together, as they can both benefit from the presence of the other while foraging,” said Mr. Grigore, who knew each canal with eyes closed, and each canal kept taking my breath away.
Soon, we reached the Gorgova Lake, where several fykes were mounted in a triangular shape, each sampling in an opposite direction.
“Fyke nets are a type of trap net, typically used in shallow waters. They are designed with a cylindrical or conical netting bag, often with internal cones to guide fish in and make escape difficult. These nets are fixed to the bottom using stakes and may also have stake nets to direct fish towards the entrance”, explained Mr. Grigore.
Mr. Grigore propelled the boat by pushing against the riverbed with a pole, while his helper, Mr. Vasile, was rowing with oars.
They rowed the boat towards each fyke net, hauling in the traps, and collecting fish of different species and sizes: pikes, carp, crucian carp, zander, and catfish. Crowded fish splashed and struggled at the water’s surface as the net trapped them.
Then the nets were fixed back to the bottom as we moved on, while a flock of hungry pelicans followed close behind.
“They are following us. They keep account of our catches”, joked Mr. Grigore.
Soon, the boat was loaded with freshly caught fish, and we returned to the fisherman’s hut on the Litcov Channel. This channel is considered one of the most scenic waterways in the Danube Delta. Surrounded by water lilies, we entered one of the Delta’s most stunning and peaceful areas, where we were going to spend the next few hours doing nothing but relaxing and tasting the local cuisine.
Back on dry land, they sorted the fish and set to make one of the most delicious Romanian soups, bors de peste, a very special soup that uses water from the Danube in the broth, as well as different freshly caught fish.
In a wetland behind, wild geese were honking, a greedy flock of pelicans was foraging for food, and the kingfisher had just dived in for prey. In the yard, Mr. Vasile was cleaning the fish, while Mr. Grigore was boiling vegetables in a giant cauldron over an open fire: onions, potatoes, peppers, tomatoes, and a mix of homemade canned vegetables.
“The more vegetables you use, the better the taste it gets, said Mr. Grigore. Once boiled, the big fish was added very carefully, not stirring it while boiling. For the sour taste, he added vinegar and a spoonful of homemade garlic paste. When the fish was ready, the soup was tinkered with egg, salt, and topped with lovage.
When all was done, the fish was taken out, placed on a separate platter, and we served it separately with garlic sauce, because, here in the Delta, one must be full of fish before having the soup. The fish, including a mix of species such as catfish, carp, pike, and perch, had a mild, delicate, and subtly sweet flavor. It was a delicious exploration of rich and hearty flavor.
Serving this tasty meal in such a tranquil and picturesque setting was an immersive experience that connected us to the spirit of the Delta, a profound encounter with its beauty and simplicity.
After eating the ciorba, Mr. Grigore brought a mound of fresh fish to fry in a large pan. Meanwhile, we tasted some deliciously smoked catfish with onions and tomatoes right out of the smoker.
The smell of frying fish quickly spread in the air, making the tourists on the passing boats turn heads in envy.
We had it with freshly picked radishes, polenta, and garlic paste. The dish was not only super sweet and tasty, but also looked very appetizing.
It was indeed the experience of a lifetime. I will never forget waking up that morning to find myself in paradise, all the birds praising at sunrise, and the unique taste of that freshly caught fish.
Contact Mr. Grigore: 004 0754 292 248 / Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100063808111572
Location: The Litcov Canal, Danube Delta, Romania
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